Distant Horizon 2 - Day three


After a lazy start and a breakfast the sun was soon out and I could tell today was going to be another scorcher.  I toyed with heading into Norwich for it was not too far along the river – but I felt pretty certain if I did this I’d miss the tides for the return crossing over Breydon Water – so instead opted to get something to sooth my now very poorly skin at Reedham.

Brampton Common is a very nice over night mooring and the scenery here is lovely – I however do think that it would be better to hire on the southern rivers to explore this area more than come here from the north to do it justice and soak up the area.  That way one can enjoy without the need of having a long slog back to your boatyard on the northern rivers.

Shortly after I left the moorings I did a sensible thing – went below and used the inside helm almost all the way to Reedham.  It is funny how the night before I was going along here feeling a tad tense wondering if I would get to where I wished before sunset, and now I was taking it easy and enjoying the sights.  My only real negative points about the southern rivers are the lack of easy to get to amenities such as water points – they are out there, but with far longer stretches between them than you find on the northern rivers.  

The other is to do with the tides – not just the rise and fall at a mooring, but the fact on the northern rivers they run so slowly you barely notice them, down south going with the tide makes a real difference and one can cut the revs down save fuel and yet maintain the same speed – but you need to think, work out and plan your moves to coincide with mother nature – rather than get up and go.  All in all I think one of these fine days I shall have to go from a southern base – even if it was just for a short break because if you like an out of the way mooring, or a decent pub which is not chocker full of boats outside you will find this sort of place on the southern rivers.

Cantley came and went and it was not too long before the chain ferry at Reedham came into view

– upon reaching Reedham itself I was surprised how busy it was – with other Richardson’s boats all seeming to be doing what I was about to – moor up, wait for the tide to turn and use it to head over Breydon.  It was handy the Broads Authority ranger was there to take my bow rope – but I was confused by the signage.  A black board had low water times at Yarmouth – but they were very much different to shorebase.co.uk (who I had used online to get the tide times) or the tide table in the Skippers Handbook – then the fact the Ranger said water top up was £3.00 but the sign said £2.00 .

Topped up with water, it was time to head off and find some sun cream.  The Post Office was the first stop – now selling basic provisions, but alas none was to be found there – I did however get myself a Cowboy hat  - I then headed up the steep road to the store which had all sorts of things for sale, but no sun cream. Indeed I could find nothing of anything that could help soothe the burning – but at least now I had a hat.  You can imagine the looks I got as I walked about, red face – white rings around my eyes and a large Cowboy hat.

I went into ‘Cupcakes’ - www.cupcakes-reedham.co.uk - for a coffee, but then found they did a wide selection of food – from sandwiches to light meals.  Now perhaps it is because I am from London but it never fails to surprise me how these establishments may very well be missing out on trade.  You see the opening times seem a bit funny, and closing at 4:00pm – even in the season – could well be a waste of good business because while there are pubs not too far away, I am sure many people who moor there might like something light and tasty and not just a pub to pop into. To shut up at 4:00pm and stop serving food half an hour prior to that may not be the most savvy of business decisions even if it makes for an easier life for the proprietors.

I had a Panini with cheese and Norfolk ham, salad and a coffee – and it was scrumptious and had a lovely atmosphere inside with people talking about their trips and planning ahead for Breydon - the view was idyllic seeing the odd boat pass by and the quietness that the quayside at Reedham as about it I’d toughly recommend popping in – just make sure you get there early.

Back on the boat I prepared all I would need for the next stint in the journey north – when your solo you need to prepare so things are to hand – then off to the Ranger to let him know I was off and would he mind once again helping with my bow rope so I could spring off the mooring and head out away from the quay in reverse.  He was most helpful but seemed surprised I had chosen such a boat alone and not a small aft cockpit – big lad needs a big boat I said as I departed.

Under the railway bridge and the tide was going out at a good rate – indeed it had been doing so for over an hour, but I was betting on me getting the last of it over Breydon and by the time I turned up the Bure at Yarmouth should be slack water – well that would have been bang on the money but I could not help open her up over Breydon and arrived at Yarmouth a lot sooner than I had expected and caught the last of the ebb tide as it ran down the Bure.  Of note as I head over Breydon Water was the new Broads Authority launch Spirit of Breydon.  Now some have said this will consume great quantities of fuel and others that it would only do so if it was flat out when required to do so – such as in a response to a call for help.  I had to smile as it shot up from Yarmouth, turned and then shot back down again – impressive but by the time I had got to Yarmouth myself it was again doing the third high speed trip back up to Burney Arms.  Still, I thought to myself who does not like to be throttle happy at times.

Past the yacht station and the tide was slight – and once I was out and into the marshes as the river widened it was neither going or coming and I followed Broads Sunset up the Bure.  I like these boats a lot and it further confirmed to myself that I had seen countless Richardson’s boats, but only three or four two from Herbert Woods, a couple of Barnes Brinkcraft and one from Faircraft Loynes – if overall hire figures are down then it would seem that Richardson’s are doing something right if the number of boats on the water I saw was anything to go by.

It soon cooled off as the sun went behind the clouds and so I popped back out to the outside helm – funny how on a less than bright, cooler day going up to Acle this stretch of river seems such a slog – I had decided that I was going to moor at the Bridge Inn – tuck into some lovely grub and nice pint of Ale rather than the Lasagne I had on the boat.  After what felt like forever I arrived and moored up – phew!  I am not sure I would recommend to others you go almost to Norwich and back in two days, but it was an experience – I left pale, and now was red and burnt.  In fact I did have second thoughts, did I really want to be seen in a pub looking as I did – yes I did the locals would just have to be scared – and a lovely meal was had and a very peaceful night’s sleep after.

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