Salerno - Day one

It began early because I had booked myself on the 8:30am train from Liverpool Street to Norwich, not only did this mean my fares were just £8.50 each way, but would have meant by the time I made my connection to Hoveton & Wroxham, I could get the 11:35am bus to Stalham.

However things had changed because Mary (OldBroadsBird) on this forum had contacted me offering me a lift to Stalham.

I left my home bang on 7:00am and arrived at Liverpool Street in good time – I thought I’d try a Burger King breakfast – never again!

On the train and it was relatively quiet, past the Olympic Park at Stratford and time for a nap.  We seemed to be making good progress until just outside Ipswich we stopped and then the air conditioning went off and I knew something was amiss.  There was an over head line problem and my heart sank.  Fortunately we were not held up too long and back on our way.  I made the connection at Norwich and I was then getting more excited, the first glimpses of the river and boats as we headed out of Norwich.

When I arrived at Hoveton & Wroxham station I was met by Mary, and she is a lovely lady and we had a good chat in the car on the way to Stalham, thank you for the lift and the time taken out of your day.  I arrived earlier than expected at the boatyard and checked in – the boat was not ready but that was ok.  I left my case in reception and headed off for a stroll around the village.  It seems Stalham is full of takeaway places and hairdressers.  The Grebe pub had music blaring and certainly seems to cater for a clientele I am not part of, I much prefer the Swan. 

I had a look in the ‘factory outlet’ shop – yet was surprised much of the items I see back home in the local pound shop were well over a pound in there.  If they were inflated in price one wonders how cheap the other things may be, out of there and into Boots for some Hayfever pills.  Boots in Stalham feels very strange.  It is the fact everyone seems to know everyone else (not bad) that ‘Frank’ can be greeted by his first name and they know what prescription he has – but the thing was I was an interloper, some strange chappy from out of town and I was looked up and down as if people were taking mental pictures of me and if anything untoward happened in town they would say ‘there was this stranger you know in Boots, not from round here’.

A quick stop for snacks in Tesco and off back to the boatyard (via the staithe for a sit down and relax in the sun) the boat – Salerno No. 2 – was now ready and off I trundled over to the quay.  I must admit the only failing I find with Richardson’s is they are entirely geared for those arriving in cars.  It would be helpful if they had a couple of trolleys like Herbert Woods do to put bags and stuff on, suitcase wheels don’t like gravel and wooden slatted quay walkways.

I got on board and initial thoughts were ‘aww’ – Salerno looked every so cute in a way, short but everything you needed, large rear cabin, good sized toilet, a little galley but a full size saloon akin to what you get on much larger boats. 

Soon after the chap from the yard was over – and a miss understating ensued.  He said he was here to take me on a trial run, for which I assured him I did not need – he then told me it was a requirement of health & safety and I accepted that but in fact he did not mean ‘trial run’ but ‘talk over of the boat’ – once this was sorted all slotted into place and showed me where the gas bottles were, rhonde anchors and so on.  I did not get his name, but my he was helpful.  Off the top of his head he gave me the Landlady’s number and name of the Kings Head in Ludham and because was alone told me to call and I’d be picked up and taken to the pub.  He offered a wealth of advice on other places to go and things to do.  This was not just a script reeled off to everyone, but genuine helpful nature.  Thank you and sorry I don’t remember your name.

Once hand over was complete it was time to get going and it felt great to be back on the water – the sun was out, and all felt just right with the world.  I was planning a long cruise from Stalham to Wroxham – the idea being to moor in Barnes Brinkcraft’s yard over night.  I wanted to get there because it would make going out for a meal easy, and a good place to start off on the Saturday to do the live stream for Norfolk Broads – LIVE! from.

I left the confines of the boatyard and before long was on Barton Broad – the mad rush of other boats now coming thick and fast, I knew that this week was going to a busy one because the price bands had dropped from their summer highs but schools were still not back so a lot of holiday makers were taking advantage of this.

I mud weighted on Barton Broad just outside the marked channel to set up one of my gadgets – a reversing camera for a car that I had fitted a cigarette lighter plug to.  This set up first trialed on Dream Time would mean not only would stern on mooring be a breeze, but at any time I could see what was behind me without sticking my head out the window.  The colour camera, flat panel monitor and cable had cost me £39.00 – bargain and say this much for under £40.00 I think such a set up could well be the next addition for many a hire boat to have, least it should be I say.

Camera working it was time to haul in the mud weight and head off for the long cruise to Wroxham.  At Ludham Bridge moorings (many of which were free) I did a test side on mooring – it is always good to do this without risk of other boats being in front or behind you just to get a feel for the boat – she was very responsive on the throttle coming to stop with a quick burst of astern – the only problem was she loved to steer left, but rather hated going right, and once going left getting the wheel to turn to right was a struggle as you could really feel the prop wash on the rudder as the wheel vibrated and complained at being turned against the flow of water.

Under the bridge then, past the truly sensational looking ‘Brave Heart’ which has been extensively refurbished by Ludham Bridge Boatyard.  Before long it was time to turn right onto the Bure and head towards Wroxham.  It was busy again but really hit heavy traffic on the approach to Horning and outside the Ferry Inn was some new mooring techniques being tried.  One – stern on outside the pub, the other go past the mooring then back in as if you were parking a car.  I thought to myself if it was this full now what on earth was Wroxham going to be like – I got on to the Barnes Brinkcraft Webcam and had a look – very much a full house.  I could have got in, and I could have tried Faircraft Loynes – or even MC Marine Leisure moorings outside the Café but if I was to find no room at the inn so to speak, I would be risking not having a mooring with shore access to somewhere to eat – and I had wanted to eat out and not cook on board.

Just past the Swan I decided to turn about and head to Le Boat and moor in their boatyard.  Good thinking because when I arrived there (it has to be said I missed the entrance amazingly on the way and only 5 minutes later thought ‘hang on where has Le Boat gone to?’) so doubled back, and moored in a very quiet yard with just one other boat there with people on.

I did a bit to camera had a look at some of the boats which were moored and got ready to unpack my things.  Peace was shattered when an Emperor class boat came and decided to moor right next to me – and once moored just left its slowly smoking and oh so noisy Perkins engine running.  Why I thought, with all this space did you need to moor right against my port side.  Still I thought I’ll be off soon to the Ferry Inn for a meal and drinks so not to worry.

I left about 7:30pm to walk to the Ferry Inn and when I arrived I stood next to the signed that said ‘wait here to be seated’ I was ignored as if I was invisible, even when I stopped one of the waitresses to ask if they had a table, I was looked at as if I was infected – just one? No one else with you I was asked (as if this was some kind of terrible affliction to turn up to a pub and want to eat and be alone) she vanished and 5 minutes later I was none the wiser if there was going to be room – a family of four arrived, chap came over and smiled and took them off to a table.  I got his attention and again asked about myself possibly being able to eat there tonight, to which I was told they were now full and expect an hours wait!

I did not want to mess about and left.  I did not fancy the walk to the New Inn or Swan so went to  Harry’s Fish Shop.  I ordered Haddock & Chips and a diet coke, only to be told their fridge had exploded the day before so they coke was warm.  My heart was sinking.  Warm coke, and a meal which I had not planned on having.  I was tired having been on the go for over 13 hours now and just wanting to eat and go to sleep.

The good news was the fish was freshly cooked and it was blooming lovely! Crispy well covered batter, succulent and flaky fish.  The chips weren’t half bad either and so I walked back to the boat, to find the Emperor boat had moved to the other side of the basin – I was now alone and all was quiet.  I sat in the forward well on the boat and watched the sun go down and finished my fish & chips.  Life was not so bad after all.

It was an early night and I have to hand it to Richardson’s they do have good pillows, snug blankets and thick duvets.  A lovely berth I could stretch out in and would certainly be comfy for two without being to squashed up.

Ahh, this was the life I thought as I drifted to sleep.