Brinks Royale - Day Six

Today began with a plan of being a short day as far as cruising, and doing rather little - however it evolved into a very full day with an awful lot including a visit to  the White Horse in Neatishead but it all started off around 6:00am in Horning.

After yesterday's long cruise back north from Reedham, I had spent a nice evening in the Ferry Inn with some good priced, nice food and drink and I had come back to the boat and feeling worn out had an early night.  I woke up in the morning and despite being only around 5:15am I could not sleep more and was restless, a cup of coffee later and I was all set wanting to do something - so I got ready and thought I would leave at 6:00am and go to Wroxham, shower have breakfast pop into Roy's and then have a nice slow day and more up somewhere around mid afternoon and call it a day.  How plans change.

It was lovely going past the chalet's all quiet without fishermen outside and needing to stay clear of their lines, the lack of activity on the water as if the wildlife was getting into their positions ready for the busy day of convincing humans they need more bread.  I saw a couple of boats on the move - sadly one speeding along clearly not thinking anyone else might be around a corner  as if they felt it ok to speed before others might be up and about.

I arrived in Wroxham and found a mooring in Barnes Brinkctaft's yard, handy as I could top up with water after my shower.  By now there was a distinct breeze in the air, cooler today more grey as well it felt like there was change happening.  I stayed in the yard for a while really just in no rush to do anything but after going into Roy's and coming back to the boat I thought about what I could do -  and decided upon the River Ant since I had so far not visited this beautiful river this trip.  Upon leaving Wroxham the breeze had got stronger and by the time I was past Salhouse things were getting challenging trying to stay on a straight course.

Royale is high sided but with a planning hull there is no keel and the ever more gusty wind would just push the boat left or right suddenly, it needed a lot of concentration and at times work at the wheel to counter the acts of the wind.  This wind as it turned out would get stronger still and be very much part of the day's events.

Through Horning I came, now all active with sailing boats down the river making the most of the windy conditions to get some good speed,

but once into more pen country past Ranworth Dam with Reeds bending -almost bowing to the wind things were getting ever more lively at the helm.  I could actually feel the bow suddenly being pushed  this way or that, I had also zipped some of the canopy down but this meant it acted at the rear as a bit of a sail countering the wind on the bow meaning combined the boat would seem to slide sideways briefly - sometimes I wondered If I should either remove the canopy or put it all up - but I left it as was, because although less warm it was not cold and with all the sides done up the cockpit was a darker place.

I turned on to the Ant, despite being narrow and calmer than the Bure, on certain bends the wind would whip up and I would be fighting to stay out of the Reeds.  I knew right away Ludham Bridge would be fun - a windy exposed place at the best of times but on a day like today not a place to get caught in a line of boats trying to go through the bridge. 

When I arrived at Ludham Bridge it was indeed very strong cross winds, but they were confused gusting one way then a pause then something would gust from the other direction so you would not just be fighting a single direction of wind.  I lined up and was making a good run at it, all of a sudden I remembered my camera was still on the roof recording I looked at it, the bridge, the camera trying to work out if it would fit under - knowing it was too late to do anything about it now - right as I came under the bridge I slowed (as if that would have made much odds) since we were already under it the camera top about an inch from the concrete underside of the bridge.  Phew!  I was not stationary though pointing to the left under the bridge, yeah I like to make a mess of things at times - correct, power steer and off we went only for the bow to emerge the other side and be pushed as if by an invisible hand to the left - correct, power avoid the left bank and boat - this was getting to be annoying but far from the wind seeming to get less, it was getting worse with powerful stronger gusts.

At the moorings at How Hill - just where things narrow and can be tricky I was now in a slow convey of boats heading up river and all seemed to be having a better time of controlling their boats than me - oh, how I wanted a displacement hull now I thought.  Through the bottle neck I got not kissing a bank or boat Irstead would be the next 'pinch point' to worry about should boats be moored at the staithe and another coming down river - it had not dawned on me what this wind might be doing to Barton Broad whose large expanse of water can be whipped up on a day like today.  Indeed it was only when approaching it I noticed the white horses and spray coming off other boats bows as they began 'the crossing'.  A huge grin filled my face and soon I was on the choppy waters of the broad.

I headed to the right of the island and within moments of getting on the open water the wind was not gusting now, it was just full on constant - one small wave hit the bow at an angle and came over the top of the boat covering the camera (a non- water proof camera) but I was pleased I had hit record a couple of minutes earlier to capture the swell.  I kept to the right hugging the line of green navigation posts - boats coming towards me going with the wind had it far calmer than me going into the wind - perhaps they could have given me a little more room as I had the posts right on my starboard side but I tried to maintain a straight course, not hit a post not be blown to the left.  Honestly, I loved it and so a plan was hatched.

I'd head to Barton Turf (well Paddy's Lane moorings) and fix a waterproof camera on the bow before leaving back for the Broad and getting some footage of the water crashing over the camera on the bow.  It took a while longer to fix than I anticipated, and I had a false start leaving  the mooring then remembering I had not turned the camera on, having to moor again get down low at the bank and lean over to the boat and turn it on - goodness knows what people thought I was up to. Back on Barton by now the wind had eased a touch, the waves less aggressive but still the footage captured form two cameras proved to be unique if nothing more.

Back to Paddy's Lane, time to take off the camera (it was still there thankfully) but by now it was only afternoon, not much past 2:00pm if memory serves, and while a lovely mooring, quiet and sheltered I had an electric card left - I therefore decided to head to Sutton Staithe where I could use it up, and pop into the hotel for a drink later and have water in the mooring too.  I left the moorings at Paddy's Lane and took another blustery trip on the river up to Sutton Broad, which looked rather bleak in the now very grey conditions.  Upon arrival at the Staithe, it was - pretty much full.  I could have fitted in at a couple of places, once would have not afforded me having an electric post, the other would but I would have been right up to the stern on the other boat who was moored near the electric post, so it was a case of spinning around and heading back to Paddy's Lane - and I am pleased I did.

Upon arriving back at Paddy's Lane, I moored a little further down them away from Barton Turf - all was quiet, I signed off another day of the Captain's Blog  and tied things away on the boat before going for a walk along the moorings.  While the wind was still gusting it was dry and it was relatively mild so I thought I would walk up to the Staithe via the path, which begins as a pretty board walk through the trees - but before long the Blog camera which is always with me on my belt was once again called for, recording and an 'after hours' Blog sort of developed.  I got talking to a local man, the type of local who knows not only what is going on around him but as far as Horning as far as Landlords and pubs changes and the details.  He inspired me, I should really try the White Horse at Neatishead since its recent re-opening following a major refurbishment.   I checked with my friend Google who told me that it was about a mile and half away and so, I decided to take the Blog along with me for a walk in the countryside to the pub.

It is a very nice walk, lovely countryside, huge expensive houses in parts and a far quieter road than when I was walking towards Rockland St. Mary earlier in the week.  Trust me, if this city 'kid' can do this walk you can too and while practical and more sensible to moor at Neatishead and walk the short distance to the pub, it goes to show you can do it from Barton Turf too without hassle.  Upon arrival the White Horse has been transformed inside - they were gearing up for a big event moving tables and the like so I had the place to myself, it is modern but warm, welcoming and the selection of drinks and general feel to the place tells me this will become a pub people want to come to rather than one to go to because it is the only place for miles.

The Wherry was excellent, I really enjoy this and because the only time I get to drink it is when on the Broads it just reminds me of them, of previous adventures and memories - it would be nice to have it in my local in London but I know it would ruin the association of the Ale with my visits to the Broads.   Time to get going, so back on the road once more - a bit of rain in the air I felt, but fortunately just a spot or two.  By the time I got back to the boat the moorings had filed up a boat from Martham and a lovely wooden yacht to my stern.  I was hungry so it was time to get the dinner going - but why not since this was blogging after the 'official end of the day' film that too I wondered?

With camera attached to the window over the galley it was time to make a return of 'Cooking With The Rascal' - never a gourmet affair but none the less not junk food either - you can watch the end of the video that accompanies this to see what I had, and how you can make it yourself including how microwave rice can be cooked without a microwave!   And so after an early start in Horning, a challenging day with the wind cruising the rivers and the fun of the swell on Barton Broad, to a walk in the countryside to a village pub - one could not have hoped for a more varied day and I felt truly content - tomorrow I thought, will be a short, lazy day.